Smiles and Tears

I didn't think I could meet any nation of people that could hold a candle to the Japanese in the "pride" category, but Greece has come closer than any other nation I've ever visited. Pride is a not a unique or desirable trait for any one person to have too much of, but in an entire nation, it becomes remarkable and a source from which strength is drawn. Greece has been put through the gauntlet of watching their public debt skyrocket, foreign relations with the European Union deteriorate, and their unemployment relentlessly climb to catastrophic levels; all of this in the past half decade.  The funny thing is, you could never tell by just walking around. Community parks still echo with children's laughter, businesses appear to be run as normal, homeless individuals and drifters are absent from view, and the streets are devoid of any hint of unrest. Had I not seen hundreds of online articles and news stories, I wouldn't have even been able to tell that Greece was even going through one of the worst economic crises in history. What's the biggest concealer of this horrifying ordeal? The people.

As I've written before, the Greeks are a cautious people; they are friendly, but curious about any strangers that enter their domains. Shopkeepers in neighborhoods like Aghia Paraskevi act more like concerned community members rather than meticulous salesman, and it is a fact that I admire greatly about these people. In the face of overwhelming adversity, the community ties that weave this entire nation together seem to have only gotten stronger at a glance. The platia of our neighborhood seems as boisterous and rambunctious as ever. Nowhere to be found are the long faces akin to the children of Sombertown post-burgermeister or the depravity that was so eloquently and entertainingly portrayed on CNN and Fox News. There is still this sense that, through it all, these people believe that something like this can't conquer them. I'm sure there are passionate and emotional moments behind closed doors, but in public, these people put on a face of hope like none other.

Thinking back on the American financial depression, I recall at how bitter many people became. We were so eager to point the finger at everyone we thought responsible, and in more cases than not, it would show. The Greek people are obviously angry, upset, and bitter about their current state of affairs, as evidenced by their conflicted response in the elections last month, but they are more content to run things business than sulk in their misfortune. You could see the signs of the recession on American streets, closed businesses and empty parking lots were common, and the 99% flooded every cable news network and occupied public domain for months on end. I've yet to see a demonstration or protest in my rather lengthy stay in the country, and I can count on one hand the number of closed businesses I've seen. Business is obviously down, restaurants don't fill like they should and the tourist traps have thin population counts; but the Greeks still set aside three hours a day for friends and coffee, enjoying life amidst the hidden chaos raging around them, out of sight, but very much in mind.

It is one thing to carry on as though nothing is wrong, but it is another to act like it consistently. The famous Greek hospitality, that many have claimed has faded away with the hope of economic recovery, is still very much alive in the country and it is something that the people obviously take great pride in. Shop owners will sill offer free nick-knacks if you are a regular customer, grocery stores will pay it forward by paying for all your purchases with not a second thought about it, diners will bring out complimentary dessert just to say thank you for your business, it is incredible. You know that all this hospitality is costing them a great deal financially, but if you try to refuse, they poignantly deny your refusal request and give you the item anyway before you can utter a retort. Little things like this show me that the Greeks are not going to let this crisis mar their identity or define who they are, they are a proud people with a storied history that transcends modern comprehension, they can beat this crisis. What is better yet, they believe they can.

One of the most definitive pieces of evidence of pride that I can offer happened a few weeks ago here in Athens. I had read before coming to Greece that the Greek National Football Team was the last great hope of the Greek people, and the collective mood of the people all hinged on their performance in the Euro 2012 tournament. Forced into a rough win or go home scenario against Russia, many Greeks brushed off the chance for the team to beat a very talented Russian team, but they all said the same thing: "we have hope". Seeing the way they reacted after the 1-0 victory gave me only a brief glimpse into the Greek state of mind, they felt invincible after the win, and though they knew their next opponent was the powerhouse German side, Greece felt as though their boys could win it all. That was clear a week later when the group visited the platia down the road for the game, the entire town had come out to witness the spectacle, and every bar and cafe was standing room only. The unmistakable blue and white jerseys made ripples like a river in the bars and chants erupted from every corner of the square, and did not fall silent even after the Germans struck first. When the Greeks pulled the equalizer, it was as though they had just received an anonymous donation for two billion euros. There was no greater display of pride than the honking of every motorized vehicle in sight and the fans rushing out into the streets and climbing the lamp posts, you would have thought they had just won the whole tournament. The crowds became more and more silent as the night went on when the Greeks fell on the wrong side of a 4-2 drubbing. You would have expected the depression to set in at this moment, but even here, after losing everything in heartbreaking fashion, there remained an uncanny optimism. The Greek fans were proud of how tough they played a very dominant German team, and were able to crack a smile and share laughs even in the face of defeat. I've been a part of the somber death march out of the stadium as I watched my favorite American football team succumb to defeat, and I can tell you that the number of optimists are few and far between. To see such concession and pride, even in a truly dark moment, shows the true colors of these people.

The Japanese are a tough cookie to crack, ever the stoic and calculating people. Their pride bests all other nations that I have been to in my short time on this Earth, and I've been to a few. That being said, the Greeks have gone to show that they are far from irrelevant in this world, despite what the international community may think. This nation is on the ropes and bleeding, but the unrelenting and uncompromising soul and pride of these people will be the catalyst to give Greece the push it needs, to get back into the fight.