I'm a month removed from my "journey of a lifetime" and for the first time since being given this assignment, I am actually pleased to do a blog. I must admit, extracting the details of my journey and regurgitating them back in electronic form became very tedious after awhile. I kept listening to a song quote over and over again on the trip and that was "I can't remember all the times I tried to tell myself to hold on to these moments as they pass." Every time I would hear that song I would try to take each moment, every step, every sight and sound and just try to commit it to memory as best that I could. Of course, to avoid complete sensory overload, I also used this as a conduit to store my memories and moments that I may otherwise forget.
While in Greece, I thought that each day went by at the speed of a crippled snail. The amount of trips and events compiled on top of actual school work left me stuck in a vortex of what seemed like a never ending of ancient architecture and sweltering heat. The days ran together because of the climate, but I remember distinctly that almost every day I was in Greece had those cliche cultural encounters that make you step out of your skin for a little bit and pinch yourself to see if you are dreaming. I hope I was able to document some of those moments well enough in the previous blogs to really help you commandeer my mindset while abroad, if only for a fleeting few moments.
Assimilating back into the American culture wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be initially. Granted, I was very happy to have access to fast food, separate checks, and the ability to flush my toilet paper in the toilet; but I thought I would really have trouble with the people and the lack of hospitality that I sometimes encounter while stateside. It didn't take me long to understand that my generalizations of some cultures were rather unwarranted. I had gone into Greece thinking that every culture had their quirks and comparisons were difficult, but you could still carve out behavioral universals and use those as a red herring to distract you from the good or bad things that accompany all cultures.
There are many parts of Greece that I find myself missing on a regular basis. One is just the natural history that accompanies the landscape. Even the oldest monuments and structures in the United States are babies in comparison to these behemoths of stone and human ingenuity. When you look around a city like Athens and try to imagine that you are standing on the mirage of modernity built upon layers and layers of history, you really start to appreciate and grasp just how small you are. In the U.S., you don't get that sense of wonder as often. Things that are 300 and 400 years old just don't seem that impressive when you've spent an afternoon in the heights (and heat) of Delphi. Still though, you are able to return to places like the U.S. and the major metropolises of this world and marvel in man's greatness as you witness how far we have come as a species.
My time in Greece helped me grow as a student, a American and a human being. Having spent my entire life immersed in a hybrid Asian-American cross culture, to enter a world as unique as Greece and to interact with her people is an experience that will shape me for the rest of my life. I loved everything about my time in Greece and know that I will be seeing the crystal blue waters of the Aegean sooner than I believe.
Mediterranean Osprey
Monday, August 27, 2012
Friday, July 20, 2012
"I'm Lovin' It"...But Nobody Else Is
Fast food is seen by many as a spawn of American ingenuity. For all of its delicious, processed, artery clogging side effects, fast food has taken on a culture of its own, and spread like a wildfire throughout the globe. Global fast food is not American fast food. Corporations like McDonald's and Pizza Hut have found ways to market their very Western products to a culturally diverse and unique environment. The trademark golden arches and the little red roof still famously adorn the establishments scattered across Greece and other nations I've visited, but the change and subsequent culture shock happens as you step through the doors, into another world.
I know what you're thinking: "Why the heck are you going to a McDonald's while you are in Greece? You should be eating actual Greek cuisine!". Well, I'm here to tell you that your outrage is warranted and normally I would agree with you. In the case of this McDonald's though, I think of few places where I've had a more unique and eye opening Greek meal. Furthermore, I was actually prompted to go eat at a Greek McDonald's by my Greek peers and my Greek PR professor. They made the claim that there was no experience quite like it, especially as we approach the month of "fasting" in which Greek diet becomes very limited. The inside is designed with the same terrible style as the American chain, the overuse of 70's brown, tile and horrendous red and yellow trim run rampant throughout the cramped space and provide a nice aesthetic feel of America. The menu is where things get dicey.
The words are in English, subtitled with Greek, but I feel like I'm staring at a foreign substance. I immediately recognize the staple BigMac and McFish meals that grace every McDonald's chain in the world, but you move your eyes slightly to the left and realize your not in Kansas anymore. Squid burgers, octopus sandwiches, eggplant fries and similar dishes adorn the bright yellow menu to quite the shock of a certain American. None of the foods were foreign to me, but seeing them on a McDonald's menu caught me relatively off guard. I had seen a similar trend in Korea, where bulgogi burgers replaced cheeseburgers, but to see such a drastic change in selection from a European nation was very unique. This phenomenon is not so shocking when you look at it from the perspective of the Greeks.
First off, there was nobody in the place. A McDonald's franchise is not complete without the barrage of screaming from overanxious children and the collective groans of their handlers, this had none of it. I have visited ancient monasteries on this trip that were more rambunctious than this place. It was the normal Greek lunchtime, on a weekend, and the place was as silent as a crypt. That should have been my first indicator that maybe fast food isn't the crack of the Greek people. After pondering awhile over my octopus burger, I realized that meat doesn't seem to play the behemoth role in Greek diets that it does in American ones. Meat is still very important and is served with every meal, but in smaller quantities, and as an accompaniment to the vegetables and grains. In the States, meat is the main event and everything else is subsidiary. It could also be that the Greeks trust their local butchers to get their meat rather than imported and processed goop that we call "beef". I've commented on the community ties in Greece before, and part of that stems from knowing exactly who sells you every fruit, vegetable and leg of lamb while subsequently knowing where your groceries came from before being stored. It is that well placed suspicion as well as the culinary culture that probably turns the Greeks off to fast food, even with a specially prepared menu.
Fast food also doesn't facilitate the Greek style of dining. Greeks enjoy taking their time with meals, enjoying conversations with friends as seen in the cafes and coffee shops around the country; but fast food is not meant to foster those sorts of relationships. Fast food is catered to the Western "go, go, go" mentality where taste is secondary to sustenance. A Greek, when posed with a lunch decision, is more likely to go to one of these locally owned cafes (there's the community aspect again) rather than the chain because that is what they are more comfortable with. Time isn't the issue here like it is in the states; but if they start making octopus burgers as good as the one I had, I might start enjoying the savory McDonald's flavors a little bit more.
It doesn't take much to realize that despite obvious similarities, fast food giants have had a tough time translating their product to the overseas environment. That doesn't mean that they haven't found success, but they've had to adopt different strategies that almost muddle the idea of what a true McDonald's product is anyways. You'll still see a McDonald's in virtually every country of the world, but to see the chain that is so recognizable American serving foods that are distinctly foreign puts into perspective the world we live in today. Much is made over how big a role globalization is playing in our society, but to see McDonald's integrated into a culture with different views on food, health and the general practice of dining is a very interesting experience. I was pleased with my McDonald's experience, even though there was no one to share it with me. I took solace in the fact that at least some culture, somewhere, has not caved in to the addictive pleasantries of fast food and life on the go.
I know what you're thinking: "Why the heck are you going to a McDonald's while you are in Greece? You should be eating actual Greek cuisine!". Well, I'm here to tell you that your outrage is warranted and normally I would agree with you. In the case of this McDonald's though, I think of few places where I've had a more unique and eye opening Greek meal. Furthermore, I was actually prompted to go eat at a Greek McDonald's by my Greek peers and my Greek PR professor. They made the claim that there was no experience quite like it, especially as we approach the month of "fasting" in which Greek diet becomes very limited. The inside is designed with the same terrible style as the American chain, the overuse of 70's brown, tile and horrendous red and yellow trim run rampant throughout the cramped space and provide a nice aesthetic feel of America. The menu is where things get dicey.
The words are in English, subtitled with Greek, but I feel like I'm staring at a foreign substance. I immediately recognize the staple BigMac and McFish meals that grace every McDonald's chain in the world, but you move your eyes slightly to the left and realize your not in Kansas anymore. Squid burgers, octopus sandwiches, eggplant fries and similar dishes adorn the bright yellow menu to quite the shock of a certain American. None of the foods were foreign to me, but seeing them on a McDonald's menu caught me relatively off guard. I had seen a similar trend in Korea, where bulgogi burgers replaced cheeseburgers, but to see such a drastic change in selection from a European nation was very unique. This phenomenon is not so shocking when you look at it from the perspective of the Greeks.
First off, there was nobody in the place. A McDonald's franchise is not complete without the barrage of screaming from overanxious children and the collective groans of their handlers, this had none of it. I have visited ancient monasteries on this trip that were more rambunctious than this place. It was the normal Greek lunchtime, on a weekend, and the place was as silent as a crypt. That should have been my first indicator that maybe fast food isn't the crack of the Greek people. After pondering awhile over my octopus burger, I realized that meat doesn't seem to play the behemoth role in Greek diets that it does in American ones. Meat is still very important and is served with every meal, but in smaller quantities, and as an accompaniment to the vegetables and grains. In the States, meat is the main event and everything else is subsidiary. It could also be that the Greeks trust their local butchers to get their meat rather than imported and processed goop that we call "beef". I've commented on the community ties in Greece before, and part of that stems from knowing exactly who sells you every fruit, vegetable and leg of lamb while subsequently knowing where your groceries came from before being stored. It is that well placed suspicion as well as the culinary culture that probably turns the Greeks off to fast food, even with a specially prepared menu.
Fast food also doesn't facilitate the Greek style of dining. Greeks enjoy taking their time with meals, enjoying conversations with friends as seen in the cafes and coffee shops around the country; but fast food is not meant to foster those sorts of relationships. Fast food is catered to the Western "go, go, go" mentality where taste is secondary to sustenance. A Greek, when posed with a lunch decision, is more likely to go to one of these locally owned cafes (there's the community aspect again) rather than the chain because that is what they are more comfortable with. Time isn't the issue here like it is in the states; but if they start making octopus burgers as good as the one I had, I might start enjoying the savory McDonald's flavors a little bit more.
It doesn't take much to realize that despite obvious similarities, fast food giants have had a tough time translating their product to the overseas environment. That doesn't mean that they haven't found success, but they've had to adopt different strategies that almost muddle the idea of what a true McDonald's product is anyways. You'll still see a McDonald's in virtually every country of the world, but to see the chain that is so recognizable American serving foods that are distinctly foreign puts into perspective the world we live in today. Much is made over how big a role globalization is playing in our society, but to see McDonald's integrated into a culture with different views on food, health and the general practice of dining is a very interesting experience. I was pleased with my McDonald's experience, even though there was no one to share it with me. I took solace in the fact that at least some culture, somewhere, has not caved in to the addictive pleasantries of fast food and life on the go.
Monday, July 16, 2012
Smiles and Tears
I didn't think I could meet any nation of people that could hold a candle to the Japanese in the "pride" category, but Greece has come closer than any other nation I've ever visited. Pride is a not a unique or desirable trait for any one person to have too much of, but in an entire nation, it becomes remarkable and a source from which strength is drawn. Greece has been put through the gauntlet of watching their public debt skyrocket, foreign relations with the European Union deteriorate, and their unemployment relentlessly climb to catastrophic levels; all of this in the past half decade. The funny thing is, you could never tell by just walking around. Community parks still echo with children's laughter, businesses appear to be run as normal, homeless individuals and drifters are absent from view, and the streets are devoid of any hint of unrest. Had I not seen hundreds of online articles and news stories, I wouldn't have even been able to tell that Greece was even going through one of the worst economic crises in history. What's the biggest concealer of this horrifying ordeal? The people.
As I've written before, the Greeks are a cautious people; they are friendly, but curious about any strangers that enter their domains. Shopkeepers in neighborhoods like Aghia Paraskevi act more like concerned community members rather than meticulous salesman, and it is a fact that I admire greatly about these people. In the face of overwhelming adversity, the community ties that weave this entire nation together seem to have only gotten stronger at a glance. The platia of our neighborhood seems as boisterous and rambunctious as ever. Nowhere to be found are the long faces akin to the children of Sombertown post-burgermeister or the depravity that was so eloquently and entertainingly portrayed on CNN and Fox News. There is still this sense that, through it all, these people believe that something like this can't conquer them. I'm sure there are passionate and emotional moments behind closed doors, but in public, these people put on a face of hope like none other.
Thinking back on the American financial depression, I recall at how bitter many people became. We were so eager to point the finger at everyone we thought responsible, and in more cases than not, it would show. The Greek people are obviously angry, upset, and bitter about their current state of affairs, as evidenced by their conflicted response in the elections last month, but they are more content to run things business than sulk in their misfortune. You could see the signs of the recession on American streets, closed businesses and empty parking lots were common, and the 99% flooded every cable news network and occupied public domain for months on end. I've yet to see a demonstration or protest in my rather lengthy stay in the country, and I can count on one hand the number of closed businesses I've seen. Business is obviously down, restaurants don't fill like they should and the tourist traps have thin population counts; but the Greeks still set aside three hours a day for friends and coffee, enjoying life amidst the hidden chaos raging around them, out of sight, but very much in mind.
It is one thing to carry on as though nothing is wrong, but it is another to act like it consistently. The famous Greek hospitality, that many have claimed has faded away with the hope of economic recovery, is still very much alive in the country and it is something that the people obviously take great pride in. Shop owners will sill offer free nick-knacks if you are a regular customer, grocery stores will pay it forward by paying for all your purchases with not a second thought about it, diners will bring out complimentary dessert just to say thank you for your business, it is incredible. You know that all this hospitality is costing them a great deal financially, but if you try to refuse, they poignantly deny your refusal request and give you the item anyway before you can utter a retort. Little things like this show me that the Greeks are not going to let this crisis mar their identity or define who they are, they are a proud people with a storied history that transcends modern comprehension, they can beat this crisis. What is better yet, they believe they can.
One of the most definitive pieces of evidence of pride that I can offer happened a few weeks ago here in Athens. I had read before coming to Greece that the Greek National Football Team was the last great hope of the Greek people, and the collective mood of the people all hinged on their performance in the Euro 2012 tournament. Forced into a rough win or go home scenario against Russia, many Greeks brushed off the chance for the team to beat a very talented Russian team, but they all said the same thing: "we have hope". Seeing the way they reacted after the 1-0 victory gave me only a brief glimpse into the Greek state of mind, they felt invincible after the win, and though they knew their next opponent was the powerhouse German side, Greece felt as though their boys could win it all. That was clear a week later when the group visited the platia down the road for the game, the entire town had come out to witness the spectacle, and every bar and cafe was standing room only. The unmistakable blue and white jerseys made ripples like a river in the bars and chants erupted from every corner of the square, and did not fall silent even after the Germans struck first. When the Greeks pulled the equalizer, it was as though they had just received an anonymous donation for two billion euros. There was no greater display of pride than the honking of every motorized vehicle in sight and the fans rushing out into the streets and climbing the lamp posts, you would have thought they had just won the whole tournament. The crowds became more and more silent as the night went on when the Greeks fell on the wrong side of a 4-2 drubbing. You would have expected the depression to set in at this moment, but even here, after losing everything in heartbreaking fashion, there remained an uncanny optimism. The Greek fans were proud of how tough they played a very dominant German team, and were able to crack a smile and share laughs even in the face of defeat. I've been a part of the somber death march out of the stadium as I watched my favorite American football team succumb to defeat, and I can tell you that the number of optimists are few and far between. To see such concession and pride, even in a truly dark moment, shows the true colors of these people.
The Japanese are a tough cookie to crack, ever the stoic and calculating people. Their pride bests all other nations that I have been to in my short time on this Earth, and I've been to a few. That being said, the Greeks have gone to show that they are far from irrelevant in this world, despite what the international community may think. This nation is on the ropes and bleeding, but the unrelenting and uncompromising soul and pride of these people will be the catalyst to give Greece the push it needs, to get back into the fight.
As I've written before, the Greeks are a cautious people; they are friendly, but curious about any strangers that enter their domains. Shopkeepers in neighborhoods like Aghia Paraskevi act more like concerned community members rather than meticulous salesman, and it is a fact that I admire greatly about these people. In the face of overwhelming adversity, the community ties that weave this entire nation together seem to have only gotten stronger at a glance. The platia of our neighborhood seems as boisterous and rambunctious as ever. Nowhere to be found are the long faces akin to the children of Sombertown post-burgermeister or the depravity that was so eloquently and entertainingly portrayed on CNN and Fox News. There is still this sense that, through it all, these people believe that something like this can't conquer them. I'm sure there are passionate and emotional moments behind closed doors, but in public, these people put on a face of hope like none other.
Thinking back on the American financial depression, I recall at how bitter many people became. We were so eager to point the finger at everyone we thought responsible, and in more cases than not, it would show. The Greek people are obviously angry, upset, and bitter about their current state of affairs, as evidenced by their conflicted response in the elections last month, but they are more content to run things business than sulk in their misfortune. You could see the signs of the recession on American streets, closed businesses and empty parking lots were common, and the 99% flooded every cable news network and occupied public domain for months on end. I've yet to see a demonstration or protest in my rather lengthy stay in the country, and I can count on one hand the number of closed businesses I've seen. Business is obviously down, restaurants don't fill like they should and the tourist traps have thin population counts; but the Greeks still set aside three hours a day for friends and coffee, enjoying life amidst the hidden chaos raging around them, out of sight, but very much in mind.
It is one thing to carry on as though nothing is wrong, but it is another to act like it consistently. The famous Greek hospitality, that many have claimed has faded away with the hope of economic recovery, is still very much alive in the country and it is something that the people obviously take great pride in. Shop owners will sill offer free nick-knacks if you are a regular customer, grocery stores will pay it forward by paying for all your purchases with not a second thought about it, diners will bring out complimentary dessert just to say thank you for your business, it is incredible. You know that all this hospitality is costing them a great deal financially, but if you try to refuse, they poignantly deny your refusal request and give you the item anyway before you can utter a retort. Little things like this show me that the Greeks are not going to let this crisis mar their identity or define who they are, they are a proud people with a storied history that transcends modern comprehension, they can beat this crisis. What is better yet, they believe they can.
One of the most definitive pieces of evidence of pride that I can offer happened a few weeks ago here in Athens. I had read before coming to Greece that the Greek National Football Team was the last great hope of the Greek people, and the collective mood of the people all hinged on their performance in the Euro 2012 tournament. Forced into a rough win or go home scenario against Russia, many Greeks brushed off the chance for the team to beat a very talented Russian team, but they all said the same thing: "we have hope". Seeing the way they reacted after the 1-0 victory gave me only a brief glimpse into the Greek state of mind, they felt invincible after the win, and though they knew their next opponent was the powerhouse German side, Greece felt as though their boys could win it all. That was clear a week later when the group visited the platia down the road for the game, the entire town had come out to witness the spectacle, and every bar and cafe was standing room only. The unmistakable blue and white jerseys made ripples like a river in the bars and chants erupted from every corner of the square, and did not fall silent even after the Germans struck first. When the Greeks pulled the equalizer, it was as though they had just received an anonymous donation for two billion euros. There was no greater display of pride than the honking of every motorized vehicle in sight and the fans rushing out into the streets and climbing the lamp posts, you would have thought they had just won the whole tournament. The crowds became more and more silent as the night went on when the Greeks fell on the wrong side of a 4-2 drubbing. You would have expected the depression to set in at this moment, but even here, after losing everything in heartbreaking fashion, there remained an uncanny optimism. The Greek fans were proud of how tough they played a very dominant German team, and were able to crack a smile and share laughs even in the face of defeat. I've been a part of the somber death march out of the stadium as I watched my favorite American football team succumb to defeat, and I can tell you that the number of optimists are few and far between. To see such concession and pride, even in a truly dark moment, shows the true colors of these people.
The Japanese are a tough cookie to crack, ever the stoic and calculating people. Their pride bests all other nations that I have been to in my short time on this Earth, and I've been to a few. That being said, the Greeks have gone to show that they are far from irrelevant in this world, despite what the international community may think. This nation is on the ropes and bleeding, but the unrelenting and uncompromising soul and pride of these people will be the catalyst to give Greece the push it needs, to get back into the fight.
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Check Please!
We're down to almost a week left on this adventure, and I'm coming to terms with that. My time in Greece has been absolutely incredible thus far and it feels as though I'm going to be here forever. I'm starting to realize that the clock is ticking and that any last minute experiences or trips need to be put on a high priority list before we leave. I will miss Greece tremendously and the hardest part about leaving is accepting that you might not be coming back. It is something I feel every time I leave my home in Misawa, my parents' time in Japan is starting to dwindle from what I can tell, so every visit to Misawa from here on out could be my last. There are so many specific things I will miss about this place, and the unwritten "no separate checks" rule will not be one of them.
I love going out to eat in Greece. Not only does it prevent me from having to exert effort to create food (pasta), but it provides me an immersion into the culture that you can't get eating in the dorms. All of us have our favorites in Aghia Paraskevi, and they all serve different types of foods and fabricate different kinds of atmospheres. These establishments all carry the same fatal flaw though, no separate checks. Imagine, you go out with your friends to a Greek cafe and you all order large meals and drinks of varying degree and price; after your meal, you call over the waiter for the check and he hands you a bill for 80 euros, your head almost certainly will explode. You can ask for a separate check, but all that is returned to you is a blank stare of confusion and misunderstanding. They know what you're trying to say, but don't know what you're saying it. Separate checks are a thing of mystery in Greece, a legend not unlike Bigfoot and Nessie in the simple fact that they most likely don't exist. It is extraordinarily frustrating to be forced to convert complicated math equations in your head after a wonderful meal. On more than one occasion, I'm sure that I've over or underpaid in some fashion or another which means some of my classmates or I are getting screwed each time we go out to eat.
Apparently this stems from the Greek family oriented style of dining. They go out to eat together as a group, and one person usually mans up and pays for the whole thing. It is a sign of dominance, of power, or a sign of the guy who drew the short stick in the car. Americans loathe the group check. Occasionally, some of us will take it upon ourselves to pay for the group, but that is usually limited to when relatives come to visit or after reading Oprah's "Pay It Forward" initiative. We like our checks how we like our food, separate from everyone else. Most Greek "traditional" dining is family style, with the group sharing the pre-set dishes that are brought out before them. This style rarely appears in American culinary culture as we are more content to pick our individual meals and refuse to share unless prompted. That is why we are even more content to pick up our own checks; why should I pay for anyone else when I didn't share in their spoils? I've grown so used to this style that having to assimilate to the group check for five weeks has been maddening to say the least, but there are ways to prepare yourself for the stress after the meal.
Ordering food becomes a strategic mathematical equation that each of us beings to solve before finalizing our decision. Since I mainly carry large bills and cannot make smaller amounts as easily, I look for items that round off to even euro amounts so that I get exactly the change I need. That way when the group check comes out, I know that if I put in a 20 for my 10 euro meal, there better be 10 euros entering my wallet or there will be hell to pay. Everyone has their own ritual, and immediately after ordering, someone whips out the napkin and starts figuring out how much everyone owes and how much everyone should get back. It is an arduous process, but it ensures that no one is overpaying or getting short changed in anyway. If I was on a decent salary, occasionally, I might offer to pick up the check every once in awhile. Until Greek restaurants start accepting scholarship vouchers though, I'm going to have to settle for paying for my own meal.
I love going out to eat in Greece. Not only does it prevent me from having to exert effort to create food (pasta), but it provides me an immersion into the culture that you can't get eating in the dorms. All of us have our favorites in Aghia Paraskevi, and they all serve different types of foods and fabricate different kinds of atmospheres. These establishments all carry the same fatal flaw though, no separate checks. Imagine, you go out with your friends to a Greek cafe and you all order large meals and drinks of varying degree and price; after your meal, you call over the waiter for the check and he hands you a bill for 80 euros, your head almost certainly will explode. You can ask for a separate check, but all that is returned to you is a blank stare of confusion and misunderstanding. They know what you're trying to say, but don't know what you're saying it. Separate checks are a thing of mystery in Greece, a legend not unlike Bigfoot and Nessie in the simple fact that they most likely don't exist. It is extraordinarily frustrating to be forced to convert complicated math equations in your head after a wonderful meal. On more than one occasion, I'm sure that I've over or underpaid in some fashion or another which means some of my classmates or I are getting screwed each time we go out to eat.
Apparently this stems from the Greek family oriented style of dining. They go out to eat together as a group, and one person usually mans up and pays for the whole thing. It is a sign of dominance, of power, or a sign of the guy who drew the short stick in the car. Americans loathe the group check. Occasionally, some of us will take it upon ourselves to pay for the group, but that is usually limited to when relatives come to visit or after reading Oprah's "Pay It Forward" initiative. We like our checks how we like our food, separate from everyone else. Most Greek "traditional" dining is family style, with the group sharing the pre-set dishes that are brought out before them. This style rarely appears in American culinary culture as we are more content to pick our individual meals and refuse to share unless prompted. That is why we are even more content to pick up our own checks; why should I pay for anyone else when I didn't share in their spoils? I've grown so used to this style that having to assimilate to the group check for five weeks has been maddening to say the least, but there are ways to prepare yourself for the stress after the meal.
Ordering food becomes a strategic mathematical equation that each of us beings to solve before finalizing our decision. Since I mainly carry large bills and cannot make smaller amounts as easily, I look for items that round off to even euro amounts so that I get exactly the change I need. That way when the group check comes out, I know that if I put in a 20 for my 10 euro meal, there better be 10 euros entering my wallet or there will be hell to pay. Everyone has their own ritual, and immediately after ordering, someone whips out the napkin and starts figuring out how much everyone owes and how much everyone should get back. It is an arduous process, but it ensures that no one is overpaying or getting short changed in anyway. If I was on a decent salary, occasionally, I might offer to pick up the check every once in awhile. Until Greek restaurants start accepting scholarship vouchers though, I'm going to have to settle for paying for my own meal.
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Getting to Emotional Climax of Movie? ...How About A Smoke Break?
I do what most Americans do when they watch TV or go to the movies, I go to get completely engrossed in another world and just forget about life for awhile. That is what entertainment is to us, a way to escape from the outside world. In Greece, the purpose of the cinema differs greatly. The same concept I explained in my post about the coffee shops is true for the movie theatre as well, it is a hub for social interaction, not independent entertainment. That is why I was fairy annoyed during our premier viewing of The Amazing Spider-Man when, in the middle of a very emotional scene, the screen gives way to some sort of animated commercial about laundry detergent and I was one of the first to wonder what in the world was going on. After calming the inner fan boy, I started to think that maybe there was a technical difficulty or that there was going to be some poignant explanation and apology for why I was violently ripped from the magical world of Spider-Man. I did not enjoy the answer I was given.
The Greeks apparently aren't as prone to sitting through a two hour movie continuously like we are, they require a built in time slot to allow them a visit to the snack bar. Once I got past my initial furious demeanor and accepted this cultural phenomenon, I started to wonder about the implications should such a thing happen in an U.S. movie theatre. I was granted visions of mass hysteria and 80's B-movie violence complete with Stallone representing "THE LAW"! It would not fly with an American audience. As stated above, we go to movies to become lost in the world of anothers reation; and to be taken out of that by an add and a 15 minute intermission would cause tremendous irritation. The Greeks don't go to the cinema to become lost though, it serves as more of a coffee shop with a show. The audience of mostly Greek nationals were talking throughout most of the movie, an action that would annoy some, and aside from the young boys dispersed amongst the crowd, seemed genuinely disinterested in the epic saga of good vs. evil. It occurred to me that the movie was more of a background effect for the people and that they were intently focused on their conversations. Maybe the dialogue was about the movie, but my guess was that it wasn't. Now, before you jump to the conclusion of the Greeks are rude because they talk during movies, take a moment and breathe. The Greeks were very courteous and respectful to those that actually wanted to watch, but you could tell that wasn't the reason that many of them came. They came with friends, they came with family and they were enjoying each other more than this poorly paced action flick. If our family constructs were anywhere near as strong as the Greeks, we would admire them for that, but instead, my American conditioning forced me to have to stifle angry shouts and "shushes".
My experience wasn't bad, it was just different. American movie theatres are dark caverns of silence and mind-numbing entertainment; and that works for us. We love it, we crave it, we'll shell out $8.50 of general admission costs to get to it. It is just the way things work. The Greeks don't spend every Friday night out at the cinema to watch the same Shakespearean script be set on a different planet and to a rockin' soundtrack. We go to the movies, to watch the movie. They go to the movies, to talk with one another, see their friends and enjoy the ambiance of the movie and theatre. It works, and aside from the inconvenient intermission, I really didn't mind that at all. Just wish I would have had a bit of forewarning beforehand. Speaking of the intermission, I really don't know why everyone was so eager to go the snack bar during the break. The place was devoid of any cavity causing substance aside from over-salted popcorn and coffee! No Milk Duds, no Sno-Caps, no Sour Punch Straws, NOTHING! I don't know what the American issue is with movies and unhealthy sweets, but that bug has not bitten the Greeks whatsoever.
Another thing I forgot to mention about my movie experience was the locale. The talking Greeks didn't bother me near at all, that is part of their culture and I accepted that very quickly. What bothered me were the damn birds chirping in the tree located inside the theater. This theatre, like many in the traditional style, was outdoors. No roof, no dark labyrinths of seats and sticky floors, just an open rock pit with a screen and some collapsible chairs. The movie had begun to start and the sun had not yet set behind the hills of the Attica basin. It was an incredible thing to see and the movie choice definitely helped me tone out the traffic sounds of Iouanou in the background. It was something as simple as an outdoor movie theatre that made me realize how far away I was from the cultures I'd been used to. This just seemed much more timeless and traditional, even if coated in a faux paint of modernity. I've been trying to stress the little things while writing these memoirs and this experience is one of them. I may not remember exactly what the Temple of Poseidon looked like in 40 years, but I'll remember the fact that I watched an American blockbuster outdoors in true Greek fashion.
The Greeks apparently aren't as prone to sitting through a two hour movie continuously like we are, they require a built in time slot to allow them a visit to the snack bar. Once I got past my initial furious demeanor and accepted this cultural phenomenon, I started to wonder about the implications should such a thing happen in an U.S. movie theatre. I was granted visions of mass hysteria and 80's B-movie violence complete with Stallone representing "THE LAW"! It would not fly with an American audience. As stated above, we go to movies to become lost in the world of anothers reation; and to be taken out of that by an add and a 15 minute intermission would cause tremendous irritation. The Greeks don't go to the cinema to become lost though, it serves as more of a coffee shop with a show. The audience of mostly Greek nationals were talking throughout most of the movie, an action that would annoy some, and aside from the young boys dispersed amongst the crowd, seemed genuinely disinterested in the epic saga of good vs. evil. It occurred to me that the movie was more of a background effect for the people and that they were intently focused on their conversations. Maybe the dialogue was about the movie, but my guess was that it wasn't. Now, before you jump to the conclusion of the Greeks are rude because they talk during movies, take a moment and breathe. The Greeks were very courteous and respectful to those that actually wanted to watch, but you could tell that wasn't the reason that many of them came. They came with friends, they came with family and they were enjoying each other more than this poorly paced action flick. If our family constructs were anywhere near as strong as the Greeks, we would admire them for that, but instead, my American conditioning forced me to have to stifle angry shouts and "shushes".
My experience wasn't bad, it was just different. American movie theatres are dark caverns of silence and mind-numbing entertainment; and that works for us. We love it, we crave it, we'll shell out $8.50 of general admission costs to get to it. It is just the way things work. The Greeks don't spend every Friday night out at the cinema to watch the same Shakespearean script be set on a different planet and to a rockin' soundtrack. We go to the movies, to watch the movie. They go to the movies, to talk with one another, see their friends and enjoy the ambiance of the movie and theatre. It works, and aside from the inconvenient intermission, I really didn't mind that at all. Just wish I would have had a bit of forewarning beforehand. Speaking of the intermission, I really don't know why everyone was so eager to go the snack bar during the break. The place was devoid of any cavity causing substance aside from over-salted popcorn and coffee! No Milk Duds, no Sno-Caps, no Sour Punch Straws, NOTHING! I don't know what the American issue is with movies and unhealthy sweets, but that bug has not bitten the Greeks whatsoever.
Another thing I forgot to mention about my movie experience was the locale. The talking Greeks didn't bother me near at all, that is part of their culture and I accepted that very quickly. What bothered me were the damn birds chirping in the tree located inside the theater. This theatre, like many in the traditional style, was outdoors. No roof, no dark labyrinths of seats and sticky floors, just an open rock pit with a screen and some collapsible chairs. The movie had begun to start and the sun had not yet set behind the hills of the Attica basin. It was an incredible thing to see and the movie choice definitely helped me tone out the traffic sounds of Iouanou in the background. It was something as simple as an outdoor movie theatre that made me realize how far away I was from the cultures I'd been used to. This just seemed much more timeless and traditional, even if coated in a faux paint of modernity. I've been trying to stress the little things while writing these memoirs and this experience is one of them. I may not remember exactly what the Temple of Poseidon looked like in 40 years, but I'll remember the fact that I watched an American blockbuster outdoors in true Greek fashion.
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
"Cut Off One Head, Two More Shall Take Its Place"
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| Crystal blue waters. |
Hydrofoils are a neat idea and lots of fun, but upon initially boarding the Flying Dolphin II, I was transported back to one of the more traumatic memories of my childhood. During my first visit to Australia, we took a high powered, speedy yacht called the Quicksilver out into the Great Barrier Reef. Being only 9 years old and highly prone to motion sickness, I quickly was incapacitated by the rough seas off the Australian coast leading me to head for the railing of the ship. As a 9 year old, I wasn't quite yet familiar with the natural mechanics of "physics" and released that morning's breakfast over the side of the ship. A few seconds later the bile is caught by the wind and strewn all over the large glass windows of the cruiser's main deck, sending other passengers running for their own respective railing. While not as prone to motion sickness as I once was, the choppy waters of the open seas can still cause the faint twinge of nausea every now and again, as well as the painful essence of nostalgia. Thankfully, a 6 AM wake up after getting less than two hours of sleep easily cures potential nausea by causing a complete loss of consciousness over the hydrofoil's entire journey. I woke to turquoise waters and the whitewashed buildings of our destination, the isle of Hydra.
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| Hydra. |
Hydra is a unique Greek island via the fact that it has no cars save a garbage truck and a fire truck; the only true way to navigate this mountainous island is on foot or by donkey. Compared to Athens, Hydra is serene and peaceful, with the ceaseless noise of traffic replaced by the gentle lapping of the turquoise water against the docks. The small coastal village that we arrived at was once the home of revolutionary pirates and the cannons that used to adorn the fort at the harbor's mouth still remain, albeit dormant from lack of use across the centuries. Hydra's buildings scale up the side of the hilly terrain and the white washed buildings give the entire locale a distinct look that is postcard worthy. Though this quiet village and island have eventually succumbed to the relentless plague of tourism, it still holds its small town charms once you are able to stray off the beaten path.
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| More boats than cars. |
This day was purely a relaxation day with no educational obligations. After a brief tour of the village and some historical perspective on the island, we were freed for almost five hours to do whatever we liked. Naturally, all of us immediately rounded the pedestrian path along the cliff line and headed for the nearest beach. The waters of the Saronic Gulf are as cool as the Aegean if not calmer. Which provided a much more relaxing swim than Sounion. I have grown accustomed over this trip to the notoriously rocky "beaches" of Greece and having to stumble and wince over scalding stones to reach the water becomes quite the nuisance after several trips. The group roasted under the sun until it was time to leave and enjoyed a marvelous lunch back in the village and were once again freed to do as we pleased. During this time, I spoke to a few villagers and shopkeepers briefly and became very curious about Hydra's development.
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| Lounging in the cool waters of the Saronic. |
Hydra is obviously geographically separated from the mainland but there are no significant cultural differences to speak of. It is a Greek island like all the rest with inhabitants that possess a fierce sense of national pride; except here at Hydra, that pride seemed almost doubled. Hydra was once a powerful, independent fortress that controlled the narrow strait of the gulf with powerful cannons and swift ships. According to our guide, Hydra was an economic and naval powerhouse leading up to and throughout the Greek War of Independence. The pirate ships of Hydra became notorious harassers of Turkish shipping lines and their naval skills were unmatched. Walking around Hydra, you see evidence of this maritime history everywhere. Cannons, anchors, and replicas of ancient ships can be seen across the island, but the most curious piece of evidence is the flag. Alongside the blue and white Greek flag fluttering in the breeze; is a strange design of blue and red, coated with several maritime emblems. I learned later that this flag is the official flag of the island, designed during the Greek War for Independence. It adorned all of the ships, buildings and shops of the island and you could sense that Hydra still recognized its own independence and value in some way. Such separate national pride from a well established territory was shocking and would akin to Mississippi or Virginia still flying the Confederate flag today. Little things like these cultural developments intrigue me more so than any column or ruin because they relate to the people, and the greatest measurement of a nation's history is the development of its citizens.
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| Hydra flag, Greek flag, EU flag. |
Hail Hydra!
Saturday, July 7, 2012
Hot Coffee
What do American teenagers do for fun? A simple question, yet one that I answered with a reluctant "Y'know...stuff". The question caught me completely off guard in class and I was frustrated that I couldn't come up with a glib, vague answer for. What do American teenagers do for fun? The question was brought up while discussing the Greek social interactions at their coffee shops and it was here that I realized the uniqueness of those coffee shop meetings. Every day, groups of men, women and older teens will gather in coffee shops anywhere from two to four hours and just talk, rarely sipping at their beverages at all. Now, other than the amount of time spent at the shop, this might not surprise anyone reading this, but when you realize that America doesn't really have an equivalent to this social ritual, you start to appreciate it a bit more.
Americans communicate on a largely impersonal and electronic basis. Our friends, family and acquaintances are all connected to us via mobile electronic devices and we gossip, coordinate and interact though these. Not exclusively of course, but enough that American social interaction has molded around the use of technology. The Greeks are not technologically incompetent by any means and use the same methods of communication as we do, but for a different purpose. The Greeks get their fix of gossip and social interaction in their daily coffee shop visits with friends. It is here that all of the business of the community, politics, and interpersonal discourse is conducted and in a very intimate style and setting. A group of men will sit aside the street at one of Aghia Paraskevi's many coffee shops and not move for hours, just watching, sitting and talking. It is fascinating to watch and you can only wonder what they can talk about for so long without tiring of each other's company. I reflect upon my own conversations and realize that they typically do not last any longer than two hours, at an absolute maximum. To catalyse a conversation, I usually have to be doing something with the friend or family member I am conversing with. An American family will rarely say, "Lets go down to the local cafe and just talk" but rather "Lets go down to the mall and shop". Both activities facilitate the same function, but in different styles. The American style is much more impersonal, requiring the medium of shopping to force any sort of interaction whatsoever, the Greeks don't need that medium.
Neither style is good or bad, this is not a critique of cultures; it is merely different than what I'm used to seeing. To see a community so intertwined is a sight that one rarely gets in America. In Jacksonville, where everything is connected by highways and roads, it is hard to achieve that sense of community outside your immediate neighborhood. In Athens, all communities are interdependent and independent, each with their own town square, coffee shops, butchers and family owned grocery stores. It creates a different dynamic between the people, like a hundred small towns comprising one big city. When looking at the coffee shops, you can just tell that the people in them are talking about the same issues and individuals that others in subsequent coffee shops are talking about. The interaction is so family oriented and you can tell how vital it is to the well being of the community just by observing how many people frequent these coffee shops on a daily basis, and how long they stay.
Another curious habit that differs from American interaction is the focus on commodities, or in this case, coffee. When Americans ask one another out to get coffee, it is usually to do just that, acquire a cup of coffee; everything else tends to be superfluous. The Greeks ask each other to go get coffee and rarely touch the coffee they order. The coffee is just a bonus to the conversation, as opposed to the conversation being opposed to the coffee. This is where you could argue that Americans may be more materialistic than Greeks, and that may be true to some extent, but it just goes to show the value we put on interpersonal communication compare to other countries. As Americans, we like to focus on getting to know our family and friends, and outside of that, nothing else really matters. The Greeks make a conscious effort to connect with almost every aspect of their community, to keep tabs on all daily matters. Neither one is the right choice, they are just born out of completely differently lifestyles that these two nations possess.
It is worth it to go to Athens and just sit in a coffee shop and watch people. The idiosyncrasies that they all possess are more foreign than any substance, food or ritual. You can tell just by looking at how comfortable everyone is that this is an integral part of their life. Older people having intense political debates in one corner, younger people laughing and sharing cigarettes in another, women quietly handling their affairs in the adjacent corner. All of these little moments ultimately weave into the greater fabric of the Greek community, and witnessing that first hand makes you realize just how different our two western nations are.
Americans communicate on a largely impersonal and electronic basis. Our friends, family and acquaintances are all connected to us via mobile electronic devices and we gossip, coordinate and interact though these. Not exclusively of course, but enough that American social interaction has molded around the use of technology. The Greeks are not technologically incompetent by any means and use the same methods of communication as we do, but for a different purpose. The Greeks get their fix of gossip and social interaction in their daily coffee shop visits with friends. It is here that all of the business of the community, politics, and interpersonal discourse is conducted and in a very intimate style and setting. A group of men will sit aside the street at one of Aghia Paraskevi's many coffee shops and not move for hours, just watching, sitting and talking. It is fascinating to watch and you can only wonder what they can talk about for so long without tiring of each other's company. I reflect upon my own conversations and realize that they typically do not last any longer than two hours, at an absolute maximum. To catalyse a conversation, I usually have to be doing something with the friend or family member I am conversing with. An American family will rarely say, "Lets go down to the local cafe and just talk" but rather "Lets go down to the mall and shop". Both activities facilitate the same function, but in different styles. The American style is much more impersonal, requiring the medium of shopping to force any sort of interaction whatsoever, the Greeks don't need that medium.
Neither style is good or bad, this is not a critique of cultures; it is merely different than what I'm used to seeing. To see a community so intertwined is a sight that one rarely gets in America. In Jacksonville, where everything is connected by highways and roads, it is hard to achieve that sense of community outside your immediate neighborhood. In Athens, all communities are interdependent and independent, each with their own town square, coffee shops, butchers and family owned grocery stores. It creates a different dynamic between the people, like a hundred small towns comprising one big city. When looking at the coffee shops, you can just tell that the people in them are talking about the same issues and individuals that others in subsequent coffee shops are talking about. The interaction is so family oriented and you can tell how vital it is to the well being of the community just by observing how many people frequent these coffee shops on a daily basis, and how long they stay.
Another curious habit that differs from American interaction is the focus on commodities, or in this case, coffee. When Americans ask one another out to get coffee, it is usually to do just that, acquire a cup of coffee; everything else tends to be superfluous. The Greeks ask each other to go get coffee and rarely touch the coffee they order. The coffee is just a bonus to the conversation, as opposed to the conversation being opposed to the coffee. This is where you could argue that Americans may be more materialistic than Greeks, and that may be true to some extent, but it just goes to show the value we put on interpersonal communication compare to other countries. As Americans, we like to focus on getting to know our family and friends, and outside of that, nothing else really matters. The Greeks make a conscious effort to connect with almost every aspect of their community, to keep tabs on all daily matters. Neither one is the right choice, they are just born out of completely differently lifestyles that these two nations possess.
It is worth it to go to Athens and just sit in a coffee shop and watch people. The idiosyncrasies that they all possess are more foreign than any substance, food or ritual. You can tell just by looking at how comfortable everyone is that this is an integral part of their life. Older people having intense political debates in one corner, younger people laughing and sharing cigarettes in another, women quietly handling their affairs in the adjacent corner. All of these little moments ultimately weave into the greater fabric of the Greek community, and witnessing that first hand makes you realize just how different our two western nations are.
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